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Tim Ward and his wife Teresa left their corporate careers
sold everything and decided to become global travelers
They became flâneurs — a French term for one who wanders without specific purpose
provided we don’t stay more than three months at a time in any one nation
The clock was running out in France, so we had to hop over a border somewhere…
was half the price of similar places along the French coast (€382 euros for three nights)
and then return to our regular French travel program
We did not anticipate that we would be so utterly beguiled by Bordighera
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which is constructed in the high hills above the coast
This literal highway consists of a series of tunnels through the mountains and elevated bridges over the gorges
we flashed back and forth between darkness and dizzying heights
While views of the town and beaches on the Riviera far below were spectacular
I didn’t dare take my eyes from the road for more than a second
Massive transport trucks filled the "slow" right lane
in the left lane Porsches and BMWs zoomed along as if practicing for Monaco’s Formula One trials
we heaved a mutual sigh of relief when we finally found the exit ramp for Bordighera
passing pastel-colored villas precariously perched on the slopes
stretched out as if squeezed between the steep hills and the waterfront
completely shaded by great evergreen trees
We found our little B&B just below the old town right on the shore
which was the main reason Teresa booked it for us
She’d also read reviews that said passing trains kept some guests awake at night
It turned out the tracks ran right past our terrace
so close that with a running start we might’ve been able to catch hold of a passing train
But this was not the clackity-clackity-clack of an American train
This was the swoosh of the high-speed TGV between Paris and Genova
These trains were ghostly fast and mostly silent (even the more local ones)
We discovered that there are really three towns in Bordighera: the ancient "high town," the downtown beach promenade
and the old English "colony" filled with fancy old villas
The high town is the ancient citadel: a cluster of tightly packed
ancient stone homes upon a hill not far from our B&B
We walked up that hill our first evening to explore
The high town is filled with narrow streets and three-story row houses that let in just a sliver of sunlight
simply because they’re too narrow for cars; the whole area was built long before anyone dreamed of an engine that could internally combust
But I liked the creative flourishes that filled these old streets
as if a "still life" had sprung to life
We found old bicycles parked here and there on the streets
They were decorated—spokes to handlebars—and transformed into whimsical works of art
we found a café or restaurant—with each of the menus in four languages
I found a brand-new flavor to savor: violet
Our first morning we walked into town along the waterfront
the way was just a rough trail running next to the train tracks
We passed a marina and then a little waterfront chapel before coming to the proper promenade
The promenade is accessible only by bridges underneath the rail line
effectively separating the beach from the workaday business section of town
This gives the promenade its own distinct identity
We found it delightfully quiet as we strolled along—no traffic jams by the seashore
just the occasional express train to intrude upon the crashing of the waves
There were surprisingly few restaurants and cafés
Only a handful of walkers sauntered along that morning
The beach itself alternated between small gray stones and gray sand; certainly not the best on the Riviera
They were here for the sun and fresh breezes—a cup of tea on the terrace
and you’ll find that its costs—and those of surrounding Riviera towns—is 30%-50% less for food and lodging than on the French side of the Riviera border
Sure, we could tell we were in Italy: The roads were a bit more run down
Just inland from the promenade is where fancy villas and stately hotels spread out: a luxurious area of verdant parks and gardens filled with palms
There’s even a "lawn tennis" club
This is where you really experience Bordighera
It turns out this little strip of the Ligurian coast
and it was the first place date palms were cultivated in all of Europe
one of the town’s claims to fame is that it provides palm fronds to the Vatican each spring for the Pope’s celebration of Palm Sunday
We could easily see why the British loved it here
Imagine coming from a sooty London winter to this paradisiacal place
Many of the hotels and private apartment buildings had beautiful Art Nouveau and Art Deco flourishes that have been lovingly maintained or restored
There’s a general creaminess about them all—as if they’re giant layer cakes
The architecture gives the whole district an aura of relaxed elegance
that Bordighera drew famous architects including Charles Garnier
who designed the famous Paris opera house that bears his name
told us that Garnier designed the most beautiful villa in Bordighera
It was just five minutes up the road from us
moorish arches added an exotic flavor to the villa
and it became our landmark for finding our way home
and that he operates it as a Catholic retreat center— a B&P (bed and prayer)
The Impressionist master Claude Monet also came to Bordighera in 1884 to paint
"Les Villas à Bordighera," hangs in the Beaux Arts Museum in Nice where I stumbled upon it by chance
Next to the painting is a quotation from one of Monet’s letters about this and his other paintings of this pretty little place: "This will perhaps make the enemies of blue and pink cry out a little
this fairylike light that I am striving to render
and those who have not seen this county… will cry out that it is plausible
even through I have fallen short of the mark."
We were sad when it was time for us to drive back to France
We were impressed how the town managed to keep its character intact
even as it had welcomed tourists for so long
It built a whole district for them—but did so with class and elegance that we have seldom seen in Riviera beach towns
We promised ourselves we would come back to beguiling Bordighera again
we’ll skip the Corniche and take the train
The British upper classes were captivated by little Bordighera
written by the Italian revolutionary Giovanni Ruffini
The eponymous fictional doctor was from Bordighera
and he fell in love with the daughter of a British aristocrat
he was compelled to return home to fight for the unification of Italy — a cause for which he tragically dies at the end of the novel
The author’s purpose in writing was to win the English to that noble cause
and also to inspire them to visit his native coast and create a tourist boom
and Menton were already drawing so many pallid northerners to the Riviera that the French side had become crowded and expensive
dramatically (and the book was remade in several movie versions
and it became the first Italian TV series)
It was named Hotel d’Angleterre (England Hotel)
As villas and hotels began to proliferate to accommodate the annual inglese invasion
the little town became more and more popular
and botanists for the biological diversity
Here's why you should consider a trip to the small coastal town over its flashier neighbors
Welcome to The Weekender
Coveteur’s travel series where seasoned globetrotters share their insider guides to top destinations across the world
The hidden gem is known for its striking blue water
and slow pace of life—it sounded like the perfect summer holiday
There aren’t any direct flights into Bordighera, and with longer-than-normal security lines, lost luggage, and sudden cancellations being a common theme when it comes to air travel this summer, I wanted to avoid any and all travel headaches. So, I flew into Nice with La Compagnie
The boutique airline offers business class flights at affordable prices and they have a seasonal route into the French city
I breezed through security and I even had time to finish off a plate of fries before boarding my flight
I enjoyed a glass of champagne and applied a layer of the complimentary Caudalie lip balm before fully reclining my seat flat and falling into a deep slumber
I took a bus from the airport to the city’s train station
my friend picked me up on his Vespa and within a five-minute drive
and where to eat in this hidden Italian gem
I was lucky enough to be able to stay with my friend, but he recommended staying in a hotel (or an Airbnb, if that’s more your vibe) that is located in Bordighera Alta, the city’s old town, for a more authentic Italian experience. He’s heard great things about one place in particular—B&B La Terrazza di Bordighera
the charming hotel is owned by locals and surrounded by countless shops
and alfresco wine bars while also being within walking distance of the beach
BOOK IT
Me on a beach reading a book by one of my favorite authors—I couldn't be happier
the fourth and final volume of the Neapolitan novels by Italian author Elena Ferrante
Some of the clothing offerings at Twenty Cabane
If you’re looking for a shop stocked with one-of-a-kind gifts to take back home, look no further than Twenty Cabane Deluxe Bazaar
This store is situated alongside a cobblestone street in Bordighera Alta and it’s a real treasure trove dedicated to clothing
stop by the store next door—they sell the most incredible olive oil
Grab some gelato and take a stroll through the limoncello-buzzed crowds in Bordighera Alta right before sunset
You don’t need to have a specific destination in mind—just see what catches your eye
You’ll spot a view of glistening bays as you pass by the coffee shops and boutiques dotting the street
Rocky beaches dot the coastline and one of the best is Maoma Beach
Lay your towel down on one of the chaises at the beach club
take a dip in the sea then rinse off in the outdoor shower
There’s also a restaurant on the beach where you can order seafood and an Aperol spritz while enjoying the views below
In the neighboring town of Ventimiglia, you’ll find the Villa Hanbury Botanical Gardens built by Sir Thomas Hanbury in the 19th century
Starting from the highest point of the garden
you’ll wind your way down and through the grounds
be sure to grab some lunch from the restaurant on site
you can ask the staff for a boat charter recommendation
head over to the dock early in the morning to have breakfast before hopping on a boat to explore the French and Italian Rivieras
Have your driver dock the boat near the coast of Monaco then swim over to the island to grab some gelato and relax on the beach
The triple cheese pizza was my favorite item off the menu
The margarita pizza is also worth ordering
La Piazzetta sits near a church at the center of Old Town and dinner is served in the restaurant’s outdoor seating area
giving you a nice breeze and a lovely view of the town square
The wood fired pizza is the restaurant’s main draw—we ordered the margarita and triple cheese pies and the house white wine before finishing it off with a couple scoops of gelato
Ristorante a Scibretta has a super authentic feel—it’s almost like you’re inside someone’s kitchen
but the gnocchi and sautéed octopus are also worth writing home about
Be sure to call ahead or stop by to make a reservation; walk-in tables are hard to come by
The menu changes depending on what the fishermen catch that day
It was the best part of the meal in my opinion
offers freshly-caught seafood on the dock over the ocean
The menu rotates depending on what’s caught that day
The restaurant is open from Thursday to Sunday
if you can; the line will be way shorter than it is during the rest of the weekend
Your food tour through Bordighera isn’t complete until you grab some gelato. Work back up your appetite with a post-dinner walk through town, stop by Corte Cremeria
and order two scoops of stracciatella in a cone
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A wonderful evening in celebration of a double anniversary: the 160th of the creation of the Italian Red Cross
the Sovereign was warmly welcomed at the Palazzo del Parco by the local dignitaries including Valerio Massimo Romeo
Prefect of Imperia Province and Vittorio Ingenito
as well as red Cross officials: Rosario Maria Valastro
The official ceremony began with the Monegasque and Italian anthems and that of the Red Cross
The different dignitaries then took the floor
The Sovereign then thanked the Italian institution and recalled the 32 years of collaboration between the Italian and Monegasque Red Cross organisations
The two structures work together at many festive events
but also to support each other in times of crisis and in response to the urgent needs of migrant populations
with a concert by the Prince’s Carabinieri Orchestra
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When you live in a grey world with clouds threatening to burst and rain drizzling more often than seems possible
unless you are rich in which case you become very good at finding the very best spots to escape to
If the British aristocracy excelled at anything in the 19th century it was this
And Bordighera was one of their finds for Winter holidays — a sunny climate
the Mediterranean gently lapping its shores
colours to brighten anyone’s day — and depending on the season unrivalled displays of Bougainville
orange and above all brilliant bursts of magenta
And because of its micro-climate and its special light (from the hills above it seems blessed by a special aura) architects
artists and painters flocked there too — among them Charles Garnier (Opera Monte-Carlo and Paris)
Claude Monet who lived in Bordighera and painted numerous pictures of the town
Fast forward to today and Bordighera is the same delightful seaside town on Italy’s Ligurian coast where the Alps plunge into the Mediterranean
It sits peacefully on a lush promontory with panoramic views across the northern part of the Italian Riviera and to Monte-Carlo
The popular resort of Sanremo is a few kilometres to the east of here
A promising way to start your exploration of this jewel of a resort is to walk along the seafront which
is one of the longer promenades in Liguria and is lined on one side by mature Mediterranean plants and trees
And in winter twin a visit with Monte-Carlo for an enhanced cultural
Stroll down Bordighera promenade and you will feel the magic
It is the magic of authenticity — of a promenade that is quintessentially Italian
but so special it has attracted painters like Monet
European and Russian royalty and today Hello Monaco
We have many of them even in late autumn and winter
And you can feel that almost unique Italian family atmosphere of warmth
and friendliness bubbling in anticipation of engaging anyone they meet to share their weekend joy
“Am I in Buenos Aires..?” you ask yourself
as you stroll past signs saying Lungamare Argentina
This coastal wonder wears its beautiful disguise well
You can imagine yourself singing “Don’t cry for me
Argentina” as it was indeed Eva Peron who inaugurated the promenade in 1947 and named it Lungomare Argentina
This promenade should not exist in such a pure unspoiled form
It basks radiant against the pull of gravity of exotic Riviera development
It is exotic but natural and relatively undeveloped — no high rises
no rows of brand name boutiques — just natural beauty
The promenade if not the eighth wonder of the world always delights
What else is there here to charm my senses
Let’s explore where those aristocratic adventurers first built their nests starting our short journey on foot in Corso Italia in the centre of the town and not far from the shoreline
Corso Italia runs north to the places where the Grand Royal Palaces of the 19th century overlook the town
And it is exactly where Corso Italia joins Via Romana that the origins of Bordighera as an aristocratic resort can best be seen
Via Romana has that relaxed royal feel to it and is indeed a very pleasant road with shady trees and lots of turn of the century villas
built as the Winter Residence for Queen Margherita of Savoy
Pretty streets with palms and bougainville run off it with romantic names that evoke Queen Victoria and Shakespeare
And now back from the tranquillity of the palaces on Via Romana to Corso Italia in the centre of town
Corso Italia is both a pretty street and a more lively street
festivities and occasionally themed markets
It is a welcoming venue during the day for coffee
tea and pastries (you have to try La Casa Del Caffee) and shopping and depending on the season the welcome continues at night
The street is so popular it is often cordoned off and is a pedestrian paradise
sometimes with music and diners reveling in their good fortune with the weather
Last but by no means least for you to take in the best this gem of a town has to offer is Bordighera Alta
You would be forgiven sometimes on the coast for getting about ancient architecture and medieval villages
Take a car ride less than 5 minutes slow drive from the beach or the centre of town to the Bordighera of old — a rabbit warren of alleys and medieval arches and cupolas
Park your car in front of the imposing fortress-style arched entrance to this maze and wait for a treat
There are still residents there but the majority of the space is given over to piazzas and restaurants
Many of the restaurants serve pizza and pasta and simple Ligurian fare
There is seriously good dining to be had also
One of the best is the Michelin guide’s restaurant Osteria Magiargé
The food is excellent as are the prices for the quality
And the wine — wow — you have the choice of the local red Rossesse
And remember how close you are to Piemonte as you can go to heaven with a Barolo or Barbaresco
Try also Antica Trattoria Garribaldi or fresh sushi at Novantiqua
And if you are on Corso Italia in the centre try the lively Chez Louis and not far away in the centre is the delightful Café Monet
For contrast go to the beach for delicious seafood at Amarea or Paloma 11 with its beautiful wine cellar
It’s not just a remarkable coincidence that brought three great luminaries and visionaries to Bordighera
creator and architect of the Monte-Carlo and Paris Operas to the region
had been blocked due to the war with Prussia so he sought refuge at the hometown of his wife’s family (Louise Bary) in Menton in the south of France
From there it didn’t take him long to find a taste of Italian paradise in Bordighera which then became his home for many years
For Monet it was the incredible light combined with the unique landscapes
be it incomparable Mediterranean plants and trees or seascapes or the architecture of the epoch and its historical legacy
And Bordighera was a natural magnet for botanists with its micro-climate
both Mediterranean and temperate — an allure that Ludwig Winter couldn’t resist
Having added the treasured Opera and Salle Garnier as Belle Epoque marvels twinning with the Casino in Monte-Carlo
Garnier was the ideal master to transform Bordighera
Difficult to believe that he could have the energy in one lifetime to add jewels to Monte-Carlo
Paris and Bordighera where his legacy extended to public
Garnier liked to say about Bordighera: “… Is there something more distinctive
It is probably because of this conviction that he decided to design a church typical of the mendicant orders of Palestine
to finance personally and with the help of his mother
Villa Bischoffsheim built between 1876–1879/80; now Villa Etelinda
The villa was built in Bordighera on the Via Romana by Raphaël Bischoffsheim
a banker of German origin who lived in Paris and who had met the architect Charles Garnier likely at concerts at the Paris Opera
In 1873 Bischoffsheim commissioned Garnier to build him a villa in Bordighera
Bischoffsheim stayed there for some time and received numerous prestigious guests including the future Queen Margaret of Savoy with her mother Elisabeth of Saxony Duchess of Genoa and also notably Louis Pasteur
The villa was bought by Lord Claude Bowes-Lyon
who changed its name to Villa Etelinda to honour the success obtained by his sister Mildred Marion Bowes-Lyon with her opera “Etelinda”
the future Queen Mother of England Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon will come regularly each winter in Bordighera
to spend the colder months in the area — something that knowledgeable Europeans continue to do to this day and you can too; it is within easy visiting range also of Monte-Carlo
In 1914 the villa and the huge garden were sold to Queen Margaret of Savoy
Where there are renowned architects building Villas fit for Royalty there also go great Botanists and Gardeners (Architectural gardeners)
Not that Bordighera’s incredible microclimate needed regal villas to attract them
One such famous botanist was Ludwig Winter
a German nurseryman and landscape designer
Creator of gardens such as the Hanbury Gardens
he was admired for introducing tall palms and other foreign species to the Ligurian riviera and particularly for his masterpiece gardens in Bordighera including:
the Winter Gardens were reopened to the public
His additional personal botanical gardens are now part of a private property located close to the Pallanca exotic gardens (via Madonna of the Ruota 28)
From the road you can still see the famous pergola which is portrayed in various photos and postcards — images that contributed to the spread of Bordighera’s exotic fame throughout Europe — for Ludwig Winter it was his house
They included the famous twelve palms of Madonna della Ruota
celebrated by Scheffel in his poem of 1856
entitled “Near Death” and also painted by Hermann Nestel and Friederich von Kleudgen
Winter also designed the gardens of Villa Garnier and of Villa Margherita
Garden enthusiasts should plan a trip around Bordighera
and also visit the Pallanca Gardens there which is the botanical garden with the largest variety of succulents in Italy — then enhance their trip with a visit to Monaco’s Japanese garden and Jardin Exotique and as a bonus take in the fabulous Villa and gardens of Ephrussy de Rothschild in Cap Ferrat built by Baroness Béatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild
Monet could also not resist the Siren Call of Bordighera
Monet and Auguste Renoir in 1883 were searching Bordighera for new
and painted more than forty views of the area
and between 24 January and 2 February 1884 he reportedly completed fourteen
The shimmering golden pinks and blues seemed almost incredible
Monet also searches for the southern light
the harsh whites and bright light blues which unify the tamed elements of garden and town with the indomitable merging colours of sky and mountains
to bring his famous talent to the business of promoting the snug exoticism of the Mediterranean for the sensory pleasures of our modern times
You can organize customized guided tours themed on Charles Garnier
Claude Monet or Ludwig Winter if you are a group of 6 or more
Call the Bordighera tourist office well in advance at: +39 0184 262882
exotic gardens and a calm beach attracted British expats to Bordighera in the 1880s – and it’s just as enticing today
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Leaving my wife and daughter under a parasol on Bordighera’s beach
my teenage son and I set off in search of the largest Ficus macrophylla in western Europe
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lover of Esperanto and chaplain of Bordighera’s Anglican church
pine-covered coast between Sanremo and the French Riviera
He abandoned the church and spent his time painting flowers
cataloguing archaeological artefacts and taking rubbings of the prehistoric rock carvings in the maritime Alps
View image in fullscreenOne of Bordighera’s huge Ficus macrophylla. Photograph: Riccardo Sala/AlamyEverything he did is now in the town’s Museo Bicknell
including his vast collection of butterflies
The museum also gives visitors a glimpse of Bordighera in the 1880s
which at the time had a British population of more than 3,000
They founded Italy’s first lawn tennis club in the resort and created exotic gardens around their extravagant villas
The museum’s facade is covered in a clenching
twisting wisteria which overwhelms the building with drooping
with aerial roots twisting down from its branches and a dainty palm tree growing up from between its buttress roots
There’s another monstrous-looking ficus in the garden beyond
lemons and aloe burst through the surrounding fences
All roads lead into the same shady squares behind blanched walls with a few restaurant tables in the shadeWe walk along via Romana, past the art nouveau villa Regina Margherita (the same queen the pizza is named after) towards the medieval old town
in search of a some water fountains and ravioli
Arcades and narrow passageways keep the old town cool but there is no shade on Bordighera’s seafront promenade. Halfway along is a rust-coloured bandstand dedicated to Evita Perón
who inaugurated the walkway – the Lungomare Argentina – during her visit in 1947
bike-hire agencies (it’s a flat ride to Sanremo
eight miles away) and restaurants built on stilts over the beach
plus an ice-cream in the shape of a hedgehog from a gelateria a few doors down and walk down on to the smooth pebbles
with parasols up and loungers out but hardly anyone on them
featured trips and local tips for your next break
as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays
My wife and daughter are watching over some bikes while their owners are in the sea
Tiziana and Tommaso have been cycling the Riviera dei Fiori from Genoa to Ventimiglia
San Lorenzo al Mare and then we saw some whales …” says Tiziana
“But we love Bordighera because of the long promenade
the beach is so calm and you can eat overlooking the sea.” Tommaso wants to come back on Thursday for the clothes market
high up in a valley that inspired Claude Monet
The British fled Bordighera at the outbreak of the second world war leaving a town bursting with citrus trees, exotic plants and botanical gardens. Cactus enthusiasts can head to the steep-sided Pallanca Exotic Garden on the coast road to Sanremo
which has more than 3,000 varieties of cactus and succulents
View image in fullscreenOld town of Bordighera. Photograph: blickwinkel/AlamyOn the eastern seafront, just beyond a small marina, is the Villa Garnier
designed by French architect Charles Garnier in 1873
His terraced garden is open for visits and has a dragon tree
rows of date palms and bird-of-paradise flowers and a single column from the Tuileries in Paris
we walk back up through the old town to the Beodo palm grove via a mule track and tunnel and see the view Monet painted when he visited in 1884
Villa Garnier (doubles from €94) has guest rooms and apartments in the gardens. Bordighera is seven minutes by train from Ventimiglia: the station is just behind the beach on the Lungomare Argentina
How to plan a trip to San Remo, Italy, on the Ligurian coast.
Hotels: The Royal Grand Hotel San Remo, with rates that start from €600 in the high season.
Beaches: Le Calandre, a local's-only spot with no beach club, just clear, turquoise water.
Shopping: The Mall San Remo, in an open-air structure overlooking the water, with luxury Italian brands (at a good discount).
Restaurants: The buzzy new restaurant Baccara Bistro Bello.
Events: The San Remo Music Festival, held in February, and the Carnival of Flowers, every March.
Serena Rinaldi - Studio SAB/Courtesy of The Mall Luxury Outlets
The Italian American Heritage and Culture Committee and the Italian Program at York College invite you to a discussion with Sofia Pirandello about her second novel, Animals.
In this captivating work, Sofia takes readers from Sicily to Northern Italy, exploring a scorching, drought-stricken landscape that conceals the untamed undercurrents of a violent world.
Sofia will be signing copies of her book. Be sure to join us for this engaging event and treat yourself to a delicious, authentic espresso italiano!
About the AuthorSofia Pirandello (Rome
She is the author of the novels Candido Suicida and Bestie
which were just published in English as Animals by Bordighera Press
Bestie won the SIAE award "Per Chi Crea.”
Sofia Pirandello is currently visiting American colleges and universities where she discusses her work and shares insights about her Italian experiences
Download EventMeet the author
savoring an Italian coffeeWhenWhereAC-4D02
Download EventThe Italian American Heritage and Culture Committee and the Italian Program at York College invite you to a discussion with Sofia Pirandello about her second novel, Animals.
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Claude Monet’s Strada Romana à Bordighera was painted in 1884 in the Italian town near the French border © Musée d’Orsay
Pierre-Auguste Renoir invited his friend Claude Monet to join him on a trip to explore the Mediterranean coast from Genoa to Marseilles
with a stopover in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin and Monaco
For Monet it turned out to be the first of three painting campaigns on the Franco-Italian Riviera over the next five years and
celebrates the 140th anniversary of that first trip
Conceived in collaboration with the Musée Marmottan Monet in Paris
it traces the 60-year arc of the artist’s career from 1860s landscapes around his native Le Havre to the 1920s water lily paintings in his Giverny garden
with a special focus on his Riviera sorties
it will bring together nearly 100 paintings
including 44 from the Marmottan and others loaned by more than 30 private collections and museums in Europe
Monet's Rocks on the Mediterranean Coast (1888) Columbus Museum of Art
A 140th anniversary might not seem to call for a celebration on this scale
But it suited both institutions says Marianne Mathieu
the scientific director of the Marmottan and the show’s curator
the principality’s main congress centre and cultural space
needed a subject and material for this year’s iteration of its annual summer exhibition
The Marmottan had the expertise and the contacts to complement its own collection but lacked the space for such an ambitious show
“The anniversary makes sense as a reason for Monaco
and the Forum’s very large space is a key element for the concept
which is to shine a new analytical light on Monet’s work and practices,” Mathieu says
Monet was dazzled by his first encounter with the rich Mediterranean vegetation
says the Marmottan’s director Érik Desmazières
the next month to the area between Monaco and Bordighera in Italy for a deeper immersion
Monet’s Villas at Bordighera (1884) © Musée d’Orsay
light and subject matter were not the only novelties in his Mediterranean work
In his Riviera campaigns Monet started to paint multiple versions of the same scene or motif
to capture the fleeting mutability of light within a stable formal composition
Views of the Moreno botanical gardens in Bordighera
or Dolceacqua’s hump-backed bridge can be seen as early examples of the signature practice seen in some of his later serial works such as his haystack
Rouen Cathedral and Giverny water lily paintings
The Monaco exhibition will approach Monet’s work through the prism of light
• Monet in Full Light, Grimaldi Forum, Monaco, 8 July-3 September
preview29 August 2024London calling—finally—for Claude Monet and his misty Thames landscapes The Courtauld Gallery is honouring the artist’s ambition to reunite his paintings in the city
preview4 March 2024New dawn: the birth of Impressionism revisited 150 years later for Paris exhibitionMusée d’Orsay brings together works by Monet
Degas and others first seen in a landmark 1874 exhibition
preview4 April 2018Monet's urban obsession explored in major new London showNational Gallery exhibition, which includes Rouen cathedral paintings, reveals another side of French Impressionist
Alexander Penn is a former curatorial research assistant in the department of painting and sculpture at the Denver Art Museum.
Note: Claude Monet: The Truth of Nature opened in October 2019.
March is typically the snowiest month of the year along Colorado’s Front Range, and I would be lying if I said I was not eagerly awaiting the warmer weather of summertime. In fact, as I recently trekked through snow and slush to the museum offices, I began to wonder how Claude Monet dealt with his own winter blues. His trips to Antibes, on the Côte d’Azur in the South of France, and to Bordighera, along the Italian Riviera, immediately came to mind.
As December’s Monet blog post demonstrated, Monet was no stranger to cold and harsh conditions, but he did escape during the winter months of 1884 and 1888 to paint in the sun-drenched Mediterranean towns of Bordighera and Antibes. As we impatiently wait for winter to end, let’s seek solace—and perhaps a vicarious vacation—in a couple of Monet’s paintings from these locations.
Monet had been to Bordighera one time before he returned during the winter of 1884 to paint. He first traveled there in late 1883, on a "tourist trip" with fellow painter Auguste Renoir. While he did not create any artworks on this first visit, upon his return home to Giverny, he wrote to his friend and dealer, Paul Durand-Ruel, about his trip and plans for immediate return—his time alone, and specifically without Renoir:
Claude Monet, Villas at Bordighera, 1884. Private Collection
Letter from Monet to Durand-Ruel, Giverny, 12 Jan 1884
Initially, Monet intended to return to Bordighera for only three weeks, but he ended up staying there for three months instead. Based on his renderings of the location’s beautiful surroundings, I cannot blame him for extending the visit. The bright blue skies and lush, sun-covered gardens depicted in these canvases provide comfort to anyone wishing to escape the winter cold.
Claude Monet, The Fort of Antibes, 1888. Private Collection.
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the iconic painting of London’s Waterloo Bridge
“I removed the varnish that was on that painting about a year ago now,” said Pam Skiles
varnish is replaced every few decades because it can yellow — but this time was different
“We have a fair amount of documentation that indicates that [Monet] did not want his paintings to look varnished,” Skiles said
“So when I took the varnish off ‘Waterloo Bridge,’ I did not replace it.”
Monet’s art dealers often wanted to varnish the paintings so they looked finished
The artist though turned his nose up at the glossiness of it
Removing it not only respects Monet’s original artistic choice
it also gives the art more brightness and dimension — you can better see the texture and colors: the pink
The curator and conservation team work together to make decisions like this
The museum said it’s routine for them to discuss and jointly decide on any kind of treatment to the artwork in the Denver Art Museum’s collection
Waterloo is one of six Monets owned by the museum
A number of other museums have also made the call to liberate their Monets from the glossy
“What disturbed me was that yellow varnish had accumulated in the interstices of the brushwork,” conservator Ann Hoenigswald told the Washington Post in 2012 about removing the varnish on Monet’s “The Bridge at Argenteuil” at the National Gallery of Art in D.C
“With the magnifying loupe and the microscope
you see how thick the varnish layer was and how it altered the intention of the artist.”
For “Waterloo Bridge,” Skiles used organic solvents and hand-rolled cotton swabs to bit-by-bit remove the varnish
And since this is valuable and delicate artwork
they test it first “to make sure that we know what's safe for the paint layer
A conservation fellow with the Harvard Art Museum described in a 2017 video how challenging it can be to remove the varnish from a Monet painting because “he paints in a very textured way … sometimes the varnish was really hidden in the valleys of the paint.”
This is something Pam Skiles can empathize with
The impasto at the center of the “Waterloo Bridge” was particularly tricky
The impasto is when an artist applies thick layers of paint on a canvas
so thick that you can see the strokes from the artist’s paintbrush or painting knife
The tool needed for that work was a microscope and patience
“I just wanted to make sure that I was very careful in removing that,” she said
it took her more than 15 hours to remove all of the varnish
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ShareSaveCommentReal EstateForbes Global PropertiesVilla Along The Italian Riviera Offers A Wealth Of Sea ViewsByLauren Beale
This Mediterranean villa for sale in Bordighera, Italy, is in a location fit for a queen.
The specific queen who made her official winter residence along the sea here was Queen Margherita of Savoy. Tall in stature, highly educated and with an ability to turn on the charm, the naturally inquisitive blonde served as the Queen consort of Italy from 1878 until 1900. Legend has it that the Margherita pizza, which displays the Italian flag colors of white, red and green, was named to honor her during a visit to Naples.
The coastal city, 12 miles from the border with France, is rich in historic buildings, churches and ... More gardens.
“Bordighera is a quiet and relaxing city of the Riviera in Liguria, shares Jacopo Del Maestro, managing director of Building Heritage. “People [come to] enjoy the good restaurants and relaxing life of a beach town. The weather is sweet even in the wintertime, and Monte Carlo and France are just a 30-minute drive away.”
An arched doorway opens to the circular entry.
Set in the Riviera of Flowers, a villa in Bordighera is an ideal winter haunt with its mild climate. The coastal city, 12 miles from the border with France, is rich in historic buildings, churches and gardens.
Large picture windows bring in natural light and park-like views
Plaster walls and antique fixtures are among details of note.
An arched door in the turret entry opens to the ground floor of the 650-square-meter villa, which retains much of its original detail and elegance. The living space features a functional fireplace and opens to outdoor dining and living areas.
The kitchen has a doorway leading to the terrace.
Herringbone tile floors carry over into the formal dining room, which features arch-topped built-ins and a large window. The nearby kitchen accesses the terrace, which takes in ocean and parkland views.
The views are endless from the lower terrace.
The primary bedroom suite and a storage room are also on this level.
Spiral staircases lead to the upper floor with six bedrooms and four bathrooms featuring mosaic tile work. One of the bathrooms sits inside a second turret.
There are six bedrooms and four bathrooms.
The lower floor has a bar area that opens to the gardens and includes an independent apartment with a double bedroom, sitting room, kitchen and laundry.
Mature trees provide a natural privacy screen.
Accessed from the outside is a three-room apartment with kitchen and bathroom for a total of nine bedrooms and nine bathrooms throughout—enough space for a large family retreat. There’s also a garage and a greenhouse onsite.
The property also includes a garage and a greenhouse.
The villa could potentially be split into several apartments, adding investment potential, according to Del Maestro.
The price is €2.75 million or about US $2.9 million
which is priced at €2.75 million or about US $2.9 million
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and attained the number one ranking on the men’s ATP (Association of Tennis Professionals) tour
The following year he defended his title at the Australian Open
Sinner continued to maintain that it had been an innocent mistake and fired two members of his staff
Sinner’s first competition after the news about his positive blood test broke was the U.S
While he continued to face questions from reporters about the doping case
and he lost only two sets during the tournament en route to winning his second major of the year
He was only the third male tennis player since 1968 to have his first two major wins occur in the same calendar year
Several weeks after the tournament the World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA) announced that it had filed an appeal of the ITIA’s ruling in the Court of Arbitration for Sport and would seek a one-to-two year ban for Sinner
Despite his doping case lingering in the news
Sinner’s success continued at the 2025 Australian Open
where he defeated Alexander Zverev in the final to win his third Grand Slam title
In February Sinner and WADA reached a settlement
He accepted a three-month suspension from competition
and…his exposure to clostebol did not provide any performance-enhancing benefit and took place without his knowledge.”
Emin has a warm welcome for everyone arriving at St Pancras station, as the National Gallery probes Monet’s mind and Linder Sterling roughs up Chatsworth House – all in your weekly dispatch
“We seated the performers on the kind of wooden benches they would have been sitting on and gave them exact facsimiles of the racing cards and magazines they would have bought … This image captured the moment when the group gave way to the individual
others try to reach out and make contact with others
There’s the guy in the bottom left telling off-colour jokes
Australian photographer Mike O’Meally has been chasing the great American dream
Artists from Belarus and Russia created a clown festival for April Fools’ Day
Iranian art is on show in London and selling fast
The V&A may return looted Ethiopian treasures on long-term loan
Photographing Istanbul by night can get you locked up
Cristiano Ronaldo’s sculptor has had a second go
Todd Webb was responsible for some pioneering documentary photography in 1950s sub-Saharan Africa
Mexico City has a gay cruising scene on its underground network
The Ashmolean in Oxford is brimful of little-known US modernist painters
We have skateboarding to thank for a sensible South Bank renovation
Junya Ishigami designs buildings that float
Richard Burton’s childhood cinema is to be refurbished as a community hub
Writer Laura Barton and photographer Sarah Lee walked down Santa Monica pier to explore the final US frontier
Tate Liverpool’s chief art handler has taken over the gallery
… and fine art is taking over Instagram
To follow us on Twitter: @GdnArtandDesign
ShareSaveLifestyleStyle & BeautyHoliday Gift Guide 2020: The Best Unisex FragrancesByTanya Akim
Forbes contributors publish independent expert analyses and insights
03:27pm ESTShareSaveThis article is more than 4 years old
Assigned-gender fragrances are starting to feel like last month’s milk — sour
Long-gone are the days of female-only florals and musks-for-men
In most countries — especially France — fragrance creation is treated as a high art
bears witness to its layered qualities throughout the process of oxidation
While a fragrance can have a top note of lavender
it will open up to a muskier scent like Cashmeran Wood
Gender fluidity and non-binary assignments are not only prevalent in celebrity culture and streetwear
When shopping for the fragrance enthusiast in your life
try any of the following award-winning unisex scents
Krigler Villa Bordighera 20
No one deserves the title of “fragrance-expert” unless there is a bottle of Krigler on their countertop
Maison Krigler is one of the oldest perfume houses
privately held by the same founding family since 1904
Originally commissioned in 1920 by famed Italian playwright Guissepe Adami
Villa Bordighera 20 was created by Albert Krigler to invoke memories of Adami’s favorite vacation place
Villa Bordighera 20 has all the notes of a Ligurian vacation: lemon
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat 540
Francis Kurkdjian is practically synonymous with luxury fragrance
The nose behind the world’s most famous fragrances created a best-selling collaboration with Baccarat in 2015
Tom Ford Ombre Leather
This warm and spicy fragrance is the epitome of luxury leather
the layers of this keep opening up impressively
there’s no excessive powder or lingering florals
leather jacket and a motorcycle ride up the PCH
Bond No. 9 My New York
One of the newest additions to the legendary New York City perfumer
and My New York is another fragrance of the highest order
the latest in the award-winning line has notes of ginger
Byredo Sellier
One of Byredo’s three “Night Veils” collection
Sellier is a delicious leather and Cashmeran Wood
Horse-lovers and equestrians will recognize the name denotes a riding saddle
this creamy leather will evoke feelings of a warm stable
Escentric Molecules Molecule 01
Molecule is a unique-smelling fragrance on its own and when its layered with any other
this stand-out brand’s hero product takes on the body chemistry of each individual wearer
Be warned: strangers may begin approaching in droves
Comme des Garçons x Monocle Scent One: Hinoki
Named after the hinoki cypress tree of Japan, the CdG x Monocle collaboration is perfect. The strong pine-based incense top notes are executed in a way that’s clean and and impossibly fresh. Think of a morning walk through a meditative, pine forest — this is as good as it gets.
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Town's mayor says punishing beggars is impossible because they 'can't or will never be able to pay'
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Giving money to beggars may generally be considered an act of kindness — but in the Italian town of Bordighera, it is now supposed to be an offense punishable with a fine.
The town's mayor, Giacomo Pallanca, made the decision in response to complaints about homeless men and women begging for money, according to Italian newspaper Il Secolo XIX and the news site the Local. Pallanca defended the policy in an interview, arguing that punishing beggars was impossible because they “can't or will never be able to pay.”
“Since real organisations are often behind this phenomenon, we must eradicate it by discouraging those who offer money,” Pallanca was quoted as saying.
Italy, just like most European countries, has an extensive welfare system that allows homeless citizens to apply for social housing or unemployment benefits. That is why some countries, such as the United Kingdom, have made it illegal to beg for money. Italy has no such restriction, which has raised questions over the Bordighera rule's compliance with national law.
Supporters of anti-begging initiatives point out that begging is a profitable source of income for organised crime groups. Child beggars suffer most, as they are “denied an education, they'll have nutrition issues, health issues,” Christine Beddoe, the U.K. director of an initiative called End Child Prostitution, Child Pornography and Trafficking, told the BBC in 2011. “They'll also grow up believing that this is the only way, or the normal way, of earning a living,” she said.
Similar arguments have been made in Italy in support of the new rule in Bordighera. Speaking to the Local, Steve Barnes, who heads a charity for homeless Italians, said, “A move like this also eliminates the risk of supporting organised street crime.“
Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies
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Villa Bordighera 20 was brewed in a laboratory in the basement of the Plaza Hotel
While Villa Bordighera 20 distinctly smells of a dream vacation
it could just as easily be worn while trekking through the city in the summer
Along with the rerelease, Krigler added a new scent to its soap line. The 1919 English Promenade 19 scent is a feminine and glamorous scent, which is fitting considering it was Hepburn’s favorite
The brand decided to fashion the fragrance into a soft orange-hued soap that smells of orange blossom
understated scent behind that won’t compete with other lotions or fragrances you decide to layer with
The limited rerelease will only include a few hundred bottles of the classic fragrance and will be available in April. The English promenade 19 soap is available now
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a professed priest of the Order of Friars Minor
and the heroic virtues of the Servant of God
a professed laybrother of the Order of Friars Minor
born in Ampuyenta on the island of Fuerteventura (Canary Islands)
and died in Santiago de Chile on January 14th
An unusual sculpture garden is purposefully overgrown with plants and foliage
Artist Marcello Cammi has created an outdoor sculpture garden to the delight of locals and visitors alike
The sculpture is little-known outside of Bordighera
but word-of-mouth does wonders once someone is in the town proper
Update as of September 2019: The garden is no longer viewable as it was destroyed by a flood
A 1950s eccentric's vision of Eden preserved as a hiking trail
deep in the wilds of the Cleveland suburbs
Lombardy poplars planted to imitate the size and shape of the Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Reims
Renaissance villa and gardens complete with a tormented colossus
Flower Riviera
Palms Riviera
Genoa and surroundings
Portofino and the Tigullio
The Cinque Terre
Gulf of Poets
and mild climate: that’s why many champions come to play tennis in the Ligurian Riviera
Bordighera Tennis Club is the oldest tennis club in Italy
It was founded in 1878 under the name Bordighera Lawn Tennis Club
in friendly competition with the English Committee chaired by the Bishop of London and Gibraltar
Winner of historic matches against clubs in Monte Carlo and France
and Vido on its courts in the years before the Second World War
thanks to collaboration with the furniture company Nada & Billour
a particular type of wooden racket famous worldwide was born
which remained on the market until the late 1980s
Many modern tennis stars have passed through here: from Adriano Panatta to Corrado Barazzutti to Paolo Bertolucci
The Tennis Club Ospedaletti was founded in 1962 with the A.I.M.A.T
which also saw the participation of former Davis Cup players
confirming itself as one of the most important clubs in the Ligurian Riviera
thanks to the influx of holidaymakers and tourists who found perfect weather conditions for playing tennis at Pian D’Aschè in Ospedaletti
The Circolo Amatori Tennis Armesi di Arma di Taggia
with its clay courts and new synthetic grass court by the sea
It became well-known in the 1960s for attracting famous personalities from industry and entertainment who vacationed in Arma di Taggia
while its courts also appear in some stories by Tommaso Landolfi
the club is primarily known for nurturing the tennis career of Fabio Fognini
a professional tennis player who became the first Italian
after Adriano Panatta and Corrado Barazzutti
to rank among the top 20 players in the world for two consecutive seasons
the Tennis Club Solaro Sanremo has left its mark on the history of tennis in Italy and Liguria
the Davis Cup matches between Italy and South Korea
and later the European Under-14 Championships in 1996
with several clay and synthetic grass courts on the hills of Sanremo
it hosts a thriving tennis school and a season of tournaments and matches across various categories
Stai già fantasticando su un viaggio in Liguria?Trasforma la tua fantasia in realtà e pianifica la tua prossima vacanza
Are you already fantasising about a trip to Liguria?Turn your dream into reality and plan your next holiday
Are you already fantasising about a trip to Liguria
Turn your dream into reality and plan your next holiday
Stai già fantasticando su un viaggio in Liguria
Trasforma la tua fantasia in realtà e pianifica la tua prossima vacanza
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Transparent administration until 28.02.2025
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where visitors can admire olive trees painted by Monet are at risk of being sold off to developers after the owner amassed debts of more than €1m
Villa Mariani in Bordighera was built by the Italian painter Pompeo Mariani in 1909
complete with a huge artist's studio with views over the Mediterranean
when the area was a popular destination for British aristocrats
The villa was built in a garden laid out years earlier which was nicknamed Eden after an Italian oil exporter planted exotic flora from around the world. Visiting in 1884, Claude Monet painted olive trees and sea views
writing that a "garden like that cannot be described
all the plants of the world grow there as if nobody ever took care of them"
The property was purchased and opened to the public in 1998 by the Italian art expert Carlo Bagnasco
but after he built up debts of €1.2m (£1m) restoring the site
a court this month threatened to sell the house to the highest bidder
"I have previously had offers for €20m from Russians
so I believe they would return for an auction," said Bagnasco adding that he had now struck a last minute deal with the banks to pay off the debt within 18 months and would sell off works by Mariani
"The court valued the olive trees at €500,000 thanks to the Monet connection and saw that income from tourism would also help pay the debt," he said
But the danger of losing the house is not over
"Developers want to turn the villa into flats and I believe whoever wanted to get their hands on it was able to damage my credit worthiness with the banks – and they won't give up."
will still be able to follow in the footsteps of the actor Charlie Chaplin
the composer Giacomo Puccini and the American tycoon Andrew Carnegie
all of whom have visited the villa and its grounds
Bordighera became popular with Britons in the 1860s after the success of the novel Doctor Antonio in the UK
The book tells of a British woman who falls in love with an Italian doctor in the town
"Villa Mariani is one of a group of villas and gardens that make Liguria famous
and the Monet connection gives it special importance," said a regional culture assessor
"We are unhappy with the idea it could be sold and we certainly don't have money to buy it ourselves."
Great success for the Claude Monet
Return to the Riviera exhibition set up at Villa Regina Margherita in Bordighera and at the Doria Castle in Dolceacqua: 36,764 visitors were recorded over the course of three and a half months since its opening on April 30
the exhibition was extended until August 18
4310 visitors).All visitors were enchanted in front of the three wonderful paintings made by Monet during his trip to the Riviera.The more than 36,000 visitors (including 70% Italians and 30% foreigners) did not want to miss the opportunity to admire Monet’s wonderful paintings Le Château de Dolceacqua and Vallée de Sasso
on loan from the Musèe Marmottan Monet in Paris
from the Private Collection of HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco
Residents of the two towns also responded to the event
purchasing the Monet Card reserved for them
for a total of 1018 cards (722 in Bordighera and 296 in Dolceacqua)
Accommodations participated with ticket packages for their guests: a total of 29 packages purchased
amounting to 2150 tickets (19 sold in Bordighera
visitors greatly appreciated the entire exhibition: the picture gallery from the Bordighera Civic Collection
period clothing from the Daphné Museum in San Remo
and virtual reconstructions recounting the artist’s experience during his stay
There were good requests for guided tours in Italian and language
both in the exhibition and for the special guided tours The Places of Claude Monet
rewards the collaboration between public and private institutions
The exhibition was organized by the Istituzione Mu.MA - Museums of the Sea and Migration of Genoa
Promoted by the municipalities of Bordighera and Dolceacqua with the support of the Region of Liguria
and under the patronage of the French Embassy in Italy
here are all the unmissable occasions in 2024
Liguria will amaze you even at Christmas: during the festive season in its villages, you’ll find a thousand nativity scenes (here’s a handy Pocket Guide to the Nativity Scenes of Liguria)
And let’s not forget the unmissable charm of the winter sea
Don’t miss the Festival of Lights in Piazza de Ferrari in Genoa on Sunday
and Christmas songs to the heart of the city
there’s also a unique series of concerts to make your Christmas musical
Here are the most important events lighting up the festive season from west to east Liguria:
Do you love the feeling of thrill and the sea
From the beginning of his career in the mid-1860s to the exhibition of his Venice paintings in 1912,” says Richard Thomson
‘Monet & Architecture’ in London’s National Gallery
Thomson has studied Claude Monet’s work for years
His careful curation of over 70 masterpieces—including the famous Rouen Cathedral series; The Gare St-Lazare; and even those of less famous structures
such as a small customs officer’s cottage in Normandy—highlight the significant contribution architecture made to his central practice as a landscape painter
the built environment is surrounded by or integrated with the natural one,” he says
his architectural paintings are not very different from his nature studies
and how it played out on different surfaces—whether they were natural or architectural
or whether he painted them on a sunny or foggy day
His most famous works set in London feature the Houses of Parliament
London would not be beautiful,” the artist once said
His return to the once-foggy city comes after a hiatus of almost 20 long years; the last major Monet exhibition was at the Royal Academy of Arts in 1999
when the gallery was forced to keep its doors open round the clock
“The theme is surprising—and innovative,” says Thomson
Claude Monet has never been approached this way before
‘Monet & Architecture’ will be on from 9 April to 29 July at the National Gallery
Japanese Artist Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirrors Reflect the Distance Between the Personal and the Universal
The Good Friday Story Revealed in Stunning Photos of a Fresco Inside an Italian Monastery
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